Seamless Set-in Sleeves

Last week on Periscope I did a series of broadcasts about sleevecap shaping, looking in detail at seamless set-in sleeves. There are two key methods for working these; top-down short row sleevecaps, and simultaneous set-in sleevecaps (which can be worked from the bottom up or from the top down). Both methods are based on systems developed by Barbara Walker, and in my broadcasts I explained the principles of each method, and ways of adapting them to create a more tailored fit than the pure method creates.

Both methods create a rather angular sleevecap:

In my broadcasts I explained how to adapt the techniques to instead create a shape that is closer to a bell curve, which will provide a better fit on the curvy human body:

In the broadcasts I give detailed examples of the how to apply this to specific measurements to show you how to calculate a well-fitting sleevecap for your own bespoke measirements. This applied maths is fun – do have a go!

NB – the width measurement at the very top of the sleevecap unavoidably affects the sleevecap height in simultaneous set-in sleeves, so will need to be more than 1/4 of the sleeve circumference for this method. A good compromise is to aim for a measurement that is halfway between 1/4 of sleeve circumference and 6 inches (Shirley Paden recommends sleevecap height should be 3″ less than armhole depth in most sizes).

You can find all the broadcasts on Katch. To interact with me and ask questions during my live broadcasts, you’ll need to download the Periscope app and follow me there.

I’m now planning a series of broadcasts about shoulders, including how they interact with the top of the sleevecap. Stay tuned!